12V Green Fishing Light

I ordered the led fishing light from ebay. I want to try out if this has any effect on the fish where i fish. I have talked to a bunch of fishermen, they use big tourches when fishing.

So in theory this should work.

Specifications:

1. Color: Green

2. Lamp length: 17cm

3. Wire length: about 5m

4. Power: 11W

5. Input Voltage: DC 12V

6. Input Current: 0.5A

7. Lumen: 1080 lumens

8. LED bulbs quantity: 36*5 sides = 180pcs SMD3528 

Features:

1. Underwater lights attract fish

2. Replaceable Inner Globe

3. Used on boat and in the night.

4. 100,000 Hours of continuous use;

5. Easy to store and no breakage

6. Industrial-grade, fully-submersible design

7. Weight: 400g (light: 190g, wire: 210g)

8. 5 Sided LED Fishing Light (360 degree view);

9. Can be used both in fresh water and salty water.

10. 180 SMD Super Bright LED Lights, 1080 lumens brightness

11. Underwater and good Fishing Light for catching baits and squids.

12. Heavy Duty 5M Power Cord with battery clips.

13. 11watts, 0.9 amp draw, 1080 lumens brightness, ultra-low battery consumption (runs 8 X Longer than halogen);

Introductions:

1. Within minutes, microscopic creatures called zooplankton begin to home in on the green light source, very much the 

way insects are drawn to outdoor lighting.  Small fish soon follow, attracted by the zooplankton.  Each link in the food 

chain is followed by the next, over minutes and hours.

   

2. The water around the light will actually become foggy with the swirling masses of copepods, small shrimp, and other 

microorganbisms.   Large baitfish schools (species dependent on location) will actually learn the location of the light and 

show up night after night to feed.

3. This behavior is mimicked by predator fish who soon learn that easy meals can be found in the shadows surrounding the 

glow.   Within a few weeks, your dock will be a regular feeding station for the local fish populations.

   

4.  All this unfolds right before your eyes, and from the comfort of your own home.  Watch as predatory fish slash their way 

through schools of baitfish, or suck shrimp from the surface right in front of you.

Why Green Light?

Green light penetrate the most through water so fish are attracted to this light more. A LED light operating in this wavelength 

alone will provide much greater penetration than halogen of much greater power as halogens distribute light across the other 

wavelengths, and also some in the green color spectrum.

We recommend green, since it has great penetration, easy on our eyes, and does not inhibit our night vision capacity. It also 

appeals to many fish species, krill and squid. It is these small creates that attract the larger fish and not so much that fish are 

attracted to the light, they tend to be attracted to the food. Squid self-illuminate green light and use this as a form of 

communication and have very similar eye function to humans.

Package included:

1 x Green fishing light

1 x Blister package

This is the box it came with. As you can see the information on the box DC12V and DC24V.

The inside of the box.

All that was in the box.

Testing the light.

Hooked up.

Works in the water as well.

I will test this product alot more and post the information.

But the light seems to work fine and all looks ok out of the box.

Check out my Youtube Channel for the video unboxing.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpMqsbd16XSCxAZpxK282uA

Seljakt

Hvordan søke om å jakt sel

Trinn for trinn seljakt søknad video:

http://youtu.be/8lVEcFqFN-Y 

 

Det første du bør gjøre når du skal søke om å få jakt på sel er og ta storviltprøven. For og kunne jakte sel kreves det at du har godkjent storviltprøve. Det er lurt og få tatt storviltprøven før begynnelsen på ett nytt år. Da sender du inn søknaden så fort fylkeskommunen åpner nettsidene sine for dette. Der jeg bor kan vi sende inn elektronisk via fylkeskommunen sine nettsider. Jeg tror dette kommer til og innføres til alle fylkeskommunene snart. Om du bor i en kommune der det ikke er mulig og sende inn søknad via nett. Kan du printe ut de forkjellige søknadsmalene du trenger på nettet. Jeg har lagt ved linker til hvor man kan finne søknadene.

Det er lurt og være klar over noen regler for man søker på seljakt:

* Det er kun tillatt å anvende skytevåpen med riflet løp og ammunisjon med ekspanderende kule og anslagsverdi på minst 2.700 joule (275 kilogrammeter) for 9 grams kuler på 100 meters hold og 2.200 joule (225 kilogrammeter) for 10 grams kuler på 100 meters hold.

Det er også viktig og huske på at det ikke er lov og skyte sel som befinner seg på natur og sjøfuglreservater. Det er derfor lurt og sjekke: www.temakart-rogaland.no eller https://kart.statskog.no/.

Når man sender inn søknad for og jakt sel kan det være du får avslag. Det kan være av forkjellige grunner, men mest normalt er at kvoten er tatt i ditt fylke. Om du får avslag på søknaden din sender fylkesmannen deg en mail om grunnlaget for dette.

Om du får godkjent søknad er det bare og kjøre på. Da får du som regel en mail som inneholder 2 dokumenter. Det ene dokumentet inneholder selve tillatelsen din som også forteller deg generelle regler for det året du jakter sel. Det kan hende reglene endres fra år til år, det er derfor man får en mail med oppdaterte regler og lover. I mailen står det også hvor mange dyr ditt fylke har fastsatt kvote på. For eksempel 40 steinkobbe og 120 havert. Men dette varierer fra fylke til fylke. Den andre mailen du mottar er fangstskjema. Fangstskjema skal rapporteres til fylkesmanen snarest mulig sel er felt. Når jakten er over eller kvoten er felt, skal alle sende inn fangstskjema selv om de ikke har felt sel.

Kompensasjonsordning for 2015

Fiskeridirektoratet meddeler at det ikke vil bli utbetalt kompensasjon for felling av havert eller steinkobbe i 2015. Dette er begrunnet i at Havforskningsinstituttet for 2015 ikke har behov for ytterligere prøver av havert og steinkobbe.

For og lese nærmere om reglene for seljakt kan du gå på lovdata her er linken: https://lovdata.no/dokument/SF/forskrift/2009-12-22-1745

Selve Jakten

Seljakt er en spennende og krevende jaktform. Jeg vil tro seljakt er en av de mest krevende og kanskje den mest risikofylte jaktformen. Det er på grunnlag av at seljakten foregår på kysten og på åpen hav som kan utgjør store farer om man ikke tar hensyn til naturen. Noen steder jaktes sel fra is og isflak på havet, dette er en ekstremt risikofylt jakt og krever erfarne jegere. I 2008 var det 4 stykker som omkom i drukningsulykke under seljakt i Canada. http://www.nettavisen.no/nyheter/utenriks/fire-druknet-under-omstridt-seljakt/1717999.html

Det finnes 4 typer forkjellig sel I Norge:

Havert, de kan bli opp til 400kg og bli rundt 30 år gamle.

Steinkobbe, kan bli opp til 150 kg kan noen ganger forveksles med Ringsel.

Ringsel, kan bli opp til 150 kg, men er som regel mindre en Steinkobben.

Grønnlandsel, kan bli op til 150 kg, kan forveklses med Ringselen.

Seljakt er lov og drive fra motorisert båt. Dette er på grunnlag av at seljakt er regulert av fiskedirektoratet. Når man jakter sel fra båt står man sjelden i ro, det er derfor viktig og komme på skuddhold. Man kan gå i land på skjær som overskylles av høyvann uten grunneiers tillatelse og jakte herfra. Om man ønsker og jakte på øy eller lignende trenger man tillatelse for dette. Når man jakter på sel er det som oftest hodeskudd man står overfor. Sel synker fort og det er viktig og komme seg raskt ut etter skuddet har falt. Jeg har selv opplevd sel som har sunket til bunns bare 20 sekund etter skuddet traff. Da må man enten fiske selen opp eller få på seg dykkerutstyr. Selv om du ikke finner selen etter den er felt skal man fremdeles rapportere. Ettersom kompensasjonsordningen forsvant i 2015 kan det bli færre jegere som ønsker og jakte sel.

Fylkesmannen kan stoppe jakten når som helst når kvoten er tatt.

For steinkobbe er den årlige jakttidsrammen 02.01. – 30.04. og 01.08. – 30.09.15.

Årlig jakttidsrammen for havert er 01.02. – 30.09.15.

Fylkeskommunen vil stoppe jakten når totalkvoten er beregnet felt.

Videre er jeger pliktig før jakten starter å undersøke med fylkeskommune hvorvidt der er sel igjen til felling innenfor totalkvoten.

Link til regler for seljakt og hvalfangst ved fiskedirektoratet: 

 http://www.fiskeridir.no/Yrkesfiske/Tema/Sjoepattedyr

                                 Søknad om seljakt for Nordland:                                  

 https://www.nfk.no/tjenester/naring/fiskeri-og-havbruk/jakt-pa-kyst-sel/

Søknad om seljakt for Rogaland 

           https://kommune24-7.no/1100/bruker?retur=%2f1100%2f1100_6&shortname=1100_6

Søknad om seljakt for Telemark: 

          http://www.telemark.no/Vaare-tjenester/Miljoe-og-friluftsliv/Vilt-og-fisk/Vilt/Jakt-paa-kystsel-i-Telemark

Søknad om seljakt for Østfold:  

        http://www.ostfold-f.kommune.no/modules/module_123/proxy.asp?D=2&C=434&I=20387

Linker til alle Fylkesmennene i Norge

Fylkesmannen i Finnmark

Statens hus, Damsvegen. 1, 9800 Vadsø

tlf: 78 95 03 00, faks: 78 95 22 67

postmottak@fm-fi.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Troms

Statens hus, Strandvegen 13, 9005 Troms

tlf: 77 64 20 00, faks: 77 64 20 39

postmottak@fm-tr.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Nordland

Landbruksavdelingen

Molovegen 10, 8002 Bodø

tlf: 75 54 78 40, faks: 75 54 78 40

postmottak@fm-no.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Nord-Trøndelag

Statens Hus, Strandvegen 38, 7700 Steinkjer

tlf: 74 16 80 00, faks: 74 16 80 53

postmottak@fm-nt.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Sør-Trøndelag

Statens Hus, Klæbuvegen 194, 7005 Trondheim

tlf:73 94 90 11, faks: 73 94 93 50

postmottak@fm-st.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Møre og Romsdal

Fylkeshuset, Julsundvegen 9, 6400 Molde

tlf: 71 25 80 00, faks: 71 25 85 10

postmottak@fm-mr.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Sogn og Fjordane

Fylkeshuset, Skrivarvegen 3, 6861 Leikanger

tlf: 57 65 50 00, faks: 57 65 50 55

postmottak@fm-sf.stat.no

  

Fylkesmannen i Hordaland

Tinghuset, Tårnplassen 2, pb 106, 5001 Bergen

tlf: 55 23 72 30, faks: 55 23 72 52

postmottak@fm-ho.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Rogaland

Statens hus, Lagårdsvegen 78, pb 59,

4001 Stavanger

tlf: 51 56 87 00, faks: 51 56 88 11

postmottak@fm-ro.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Vest-Agder

Tinghuset, Tollbodgata 45, 4605 Kristiansand S

tlf: 38 07 60 00, faks: 38 07 60 01

postmottak@fm-va.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Aust-Agder

Fylkeshuset, Ragnvald Blakstads veg 1,

4800 Arendal

tlf: 37 01 73 00, faks: 37 01 76 10

postmottak@fm-aa.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Telemark

Statens Hus, Gjerpens gate 20, 3708 Skien

tlf: 35 58 61 10, faks: 35 52 85 90

postmottak@fm-te.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Vestfold

Statens park, Anton Jenssens gate 6,

pb 2076 Postterminalen, 3103 Tønsberg

tlf: 33 37 10 00, faks: 33 37 12 60

postmottak@fm-ve.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Buskerud

Statens hus, Grønnland 32, pb 1604,

3007 Drammen

tlf: 32 26 66 00, faks: 32 89 32 36

postmottak@fm-bu.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Oppland

Statens Hus, Storgata 170, 2600 Lillehammer

tlf: 61 26 60 00, faks: 61 26 61 67

postmottak@fm-op.stat.no

  

Fylkesmannen i Hedmark

Fylkeshuset, Parkgata 64, 2300 Hamar

tlf: 62 54 40 00, faks: 62 52 42 41

postmottak@fm-he.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Oslo og Akershus

Tordenskiolds gate 12, pb 8111 Dep., 0032 Oslo

tlf: 22 00 35 00, faks: 22 00 35 35

postmottak@fm-oa.stat.no

Fylkesmannen i Østfold

Statens hus, Vogts gate 17, pb 325, 1502 Moss

tlf: 69 24 70 00, faks: 69 24 70 31

postmottak@fm-os.stat.no

How to tan a seal hide

How To Tan seal Hides

DRYPTOMAX WAY

Products I use for tanning seal hides. -          Pickling Acid (I use formic acid) -  Rittels EZ Tan - Tanning Oil (PROTAL, OR RITTELS "PRO PLUS") - Salt - Sodium Bicarbonate (BAKING SODA) - PH Tester (I use electric one) but strips are ok. -          Large Bucket (I use 50L) -          Measuring tools(cups) -          Plumbo or Caustic soda (control the PH VALUE UP/DOWN After skinning and removing all the fat layers of the seal, follow these steps.

Salting

Salting and drying is very important because it leaches out unwanted liquids, sets the hair tight, and kills most bacteria that is on the hide. It’s better to salt the sealskin to much than to little. In the video you can see my sealskins have lost hair a few places. This is because I didn’t salt the skin good enough. Salting is the very first thing you should do after the animal has been skinned. Do not waste time trying to remove small pieces of fat; you can do that after salting. As long as the skin is in its raw state, unsalted, it is collecting bacteria. And bacteria are the main cause of hair slippage. You should keep the sealskin somewhere it does not get wet or to hot. Before salting you should:  Remove the very large pieces of fat, try to get as much as possible. This is a very messy job, seals have a lot of fat and grease. After this is done, apply a heavy layer of salt to the flesh side. Rub the salt into the flesh, making sure that it reaches into tight areas. Then, fold it flesh-to-flesh, and hair-to-hair, and place it on an inclined surface for 1-2 days. If you want to use the sealskin for something as a jacket, then put it in the freezer with the salt on for a week. It is much easier to get the sealskin soft of you freeze it and break down the fibers early on. You'll want to put some type of drip pan under it, because the hide will start to drain out alot of liquids. When drained, shake out the excess salt and re-apply another layer of clean salt. Let it sit for 2-5 days. Both iodized and non-iodized salt work well for this purpose; Non-iodized salt is typically cheaper in large quantities, however, so it is usually preferred. I buy sea salt in large quantities than its a lot cheaper

Pickling

A pickle is a low pH acidic solution that is used to stabilize skins in the tanning process and stop deterioration. Pickling plumps the skin, which makes shaving easier, and sets the hair. Salt alone simply creates a poor environment for bacteria to live; but unfortunately it doesn't kill it all. The acidity of a pickle does, however. A pickle also helps remove the non-tannable proteins in the skin. Skin is made up of two types of protein - globular and fibrous. Globular protein is the unwanted protein in the skin, and that is what the pickling solution will remove. It will wash the protein away, leaving open sites for the tanning chemicals to attach to. So, once your skins have been salted , they are ready to go into a pickle bath! Make sure you have removed any blood stains before you put the skins into the pickle. Pickling acids There are many acids used to create pickle solutions. These include Formic, Citric, Oxalic, and "Safetee" acid. Citric acid, Formic acid, and Safetee acid are the three most commonly used acids. I use Formic acid because where I live it’s hard to get a hold of the others. Safetee acid is the best and the safest to use, but all the acids have their good points. FORMIC ACID: Formula: 1 oz. (90% Formic acid) 1 lb. Salt 1 Gallon water The positives of this acid is that it is a very strong, stable acid. If the pH is checked and maintained, it can be re-used several times. It does an excellent job of plumping the skins for shaving, and the skins can be kept in the pickle for months if you want. The negative is that the acid can be VERY dangerous in full strength; it will cause serious burns if it comes in contact with your skin. And the fumes are potentially harmful to the lungs. I would be very, very careful using the acid, and if you live in a house with children or pets. I use a gasmask with a particle and gas filter. And always use long sleeved gloves. If you want to use these different acids its important you know what they react with. For example do not mix any metals in the pickling bath. SAFETEE ACID (the best, in my opinion!) Formula: 1/2 oz. Safetee acid 1 lb. Salt 1 Gallon water The positives are that its fairly affordable, and extremely safe. It can be re-used if the pH is maintained. It does an excellent job of plumping the skin for shaving, and can be disposed of safely and easily. No matter what acid you use, after mixing the pickle up, you should check the pH level using quality pH papers or pH meter. It should read below a 2.0. Usually it reads 1.1. You should not let the pH go about 2.5 during pickling, and definitely not about 3.0, because then bacteria will continue to grow. If the pH is too high, add more acid. If it is too low, add more water and salt or a little baking soda diluted in water. The time it takes to thoroughly pickle the skin will vary depending on the thickness of the skin. You can tell it is completely pickled when the skin is a milky white color all the way through, with no pink color. The minimum time of the skin to be in the pickling bath is 4 days in my opinion. Be sure to check the pH levels on a regular basis during the period the skin is in the pickle. Do not let the temperature of the pickle go any lower than 12 celsius. Low temperatures cause the salt level to drop, thus lowering the protection of the pickle. For best results, keep the mixture at room temperature.

Shaving

After at least three days in the pickle, you should take the skins out of the mixture and shave them. The thinner the skins are shaved, the softer they will be in the end. With sealskin being so rich in fat and grease it’s very important to shave the skin very good. There are many different methods for shaving a skin. You can you a fleshing machine. But I prefer the good old method using a ULU knife. After tanning, let the skin dry out COMPLETELY (very important). Then, sand the skins using an electric sander. I found that a heavy grit sandpaper works better than a light grit, but be gentle when sanding, especially on thin skins. I ordered my products from. http://www.rittelsupplies.net

Neutralizing

When you are ready to tan, remove the skins from the pickle and let them drain for 30 minutes or so. While they drain, mix up a neutralizing bath. So, what is the purpose of a neutralizing bath? Well, it brings the pH level of the skin up. Most tanning agents bond better to the skin at a pH of 4 to 5, which is approximately the pH that your neutralizing bath should be. For every gallon of water needed to submerge the skins, add 1 tablespoon of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Put the skins into the mixture and stir them in the mixture for 20 minutes. Do not leave them in for longer than 20 minutes, or you may not get as much stretch out of them once they are tanned! After neutralizing, rinse them and allow them to drain.

Tanning with EZ-Tan

EZ-Tan, in my opinion, is one of the best tanning agents you can buy. The skins are white-leathered, durable, soft, and stretchy, and there is little shrinkage "What is the difference between EZ-Tan and Lutan. Lutan is another tanning agent on the market, which is the same price and works in very much the same way as EZtan. But there are two differences that I have found. First off, with Lutan you use twice as much of it per gallon of water as you would EZtan, therefore making it technically twice as expensive. Secondly, EZtan is a WASHABLE tan (making it great for garment use!), and Lutan skins cannot be washed. Tanning agents are very sensitive, and you should always check the pH before putting the skins into the tanning solution. EZ-Tan tans at a level of 4.0 pH. If the pH is too low, add small amounts of baking soda. If higher, add small amounts of the pickle, or some Safetee Acid (very small amounts). Check the pH before putting the skins into the mixture, and also a half hour later. There are two different formulas for mixing EZ-Tan: Tanning Formula based on wet drained weight: After neutralizing the skins and letting them drain, weigh them. This is their wet drained weight. This formula is the least wasteful and most accurate method, and it is the method I use. For every 1 lb. of wet drained weight, mix: 2 quarts water 1/2 oz. EZ-tan (4.5 level teaspoonfuls = 1/2 oz.) 4 oz. salt Tanning Formula based on water volume: You may prefer to make things simple and simply mix enough solution to completely submerge the skins. This formula is based on the amount of water used. For every 1-gallon of water wanted, mix: 1-gallon water 1 oz. EZ-Tan (3 level tablespoonfuls = 1 oz.) 8 oz. salt You should be careful not to overcrowd the skins when using this method. When mixing, you should first add the EZ-Tan to the water and let it dissolve; then add your salt. Keep the tanning solution at a comfortable room temperature. Leave the skins in the mixture for 24 hours. Almost all skins will thoroughly tan in 24 hours. After the required amount of time, remove the skins from the solution. Rinse them and allow them to drain for only 20 minutes, no longer, or they will get too dry.

Oiling

Did you know that oiling is THE most important factor in producing a soft, supple pelt? It's true! That's why it is so important that you invest in good quality tanning oil. There are several kinds of great tanning oils available. Some of the best are Rittel's "Pro Plus oil" and "Protal". I have used Protal with good results, and have heard that Pro Plus works great too. Once the skins have drained for 20 minutes, they are ready to be oiled. Mix the oil using 1 part oil to 2 parts hot water. It is important that the mixture be warm, because the oil will bond to the skin best when warm. Make sure that the pelt you are oiling is at room temperature, too. I leave my skins on a heater floor it works great. Apply the oil to flesh side of the pelt using a paintbrush. You may also want to rub it in with your hands (I would advise wearing plastic gloves). Apply it carefully around the edges and around holes. Keep applying the oil until the skin will take up no more. Then fold the skin up tightly, flesh to flesh and hair to hair. Put it in a warm spot to "sweat" for 4-6 hours. Maximum take-up of oil will occur in this period.

Drying

If the skin is to be mounted, after sweating it can be toweled dry and then mounted, or frozen for thawing and mounting later. If you want to dry and finish the skin after it has sweated in the oil, open it up and hang it to dry. The time it takes to dry depends on the thickness of the flesh. It will usually take 2-4 days. You can put the sealskin in the drying machine, be careful to not use any heat or to dry it to much. When the skin is almost dry, but not quite, begin to work and stretch the fibers of the skin with your hands. This is where the work comes in, but it must be done to produce a soft pelt. If you stretch the skin carefully and the place you stretched turns white, then that area is ready to be worked and stretched. If it doesn't turn white, then it is not quite dry enough. Continue carefully stretching and pulling on the skin until the whole thing is white and it feels very soft. If you do not want to use your skin for anything other than wall mount or on the floor. You can stretch the skin out on something. I have made a frame that is a little bigger than the skins. I stretch it out with string and nails. This procedure takes a little work and time.

Finishing

When the skin is completely dry, use sandpaper to clean up the flesh side. I use a sanding machine it works great and makes the skin softer. If you did everything in the description you should be rewarded with a nice and soft sealskin for a long time. I am not an expert on tanning sealskins, this is just my way of doing it. It was very hard for me to learn how to do this, because there is not a lot of information on the internet. In this description I have read a lot and tried different thing I read online, and this worked great for me. The link to all the products are in my YouTube video description.

www.youtube.com/dryptomax